I had the pleasure of tasting with winemaker Marco Cirillo earlier this year, just after he'd returned from the Vinous Icons 2024 event in New York.
.jpg)
Marco and his father Vincent tend some of the world's oldest grenache vines.
The event he’d attended featured leading estates from around the world, including the likes of Bollinger, Biondi Santi (Italy), Dal Forno (Italy), Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné (Rhône), Vega Sicilia (Spain) and Stag’s Leap (Napa). Wow!
Cirillo was the only Australian producer in attendance, participating in the Rhône Wines from Around the World Seminar. Quite an achievement, but no real surprise given the historical significance of the estate’s holdings, which include what is believed to be the oldest grenache vineyard in the world, planted in 1850.
Marco’s a 9th generation winemaker - probably the most no-nonsense, down-to-earth one you’ll ever meet. He has strong opinions, doesn’t suffer fools and has set more than a few journos straight in his time. And don’t get him started on “hipster garbage wine.” He doesn’t send samples to critics, or submit wines for awards, so there’s not much mention of him, or reviews of his wines in the press.
An afternon hearing about the winemaking process for these delicious wines. Marco uses natural yeasts and prefers minimal additions and minimal intervention.
Marco has firm views on winemaking as well as wine marketing, more specifically his preference for a lack of it, which is why you don’t see his wines around as much as you should. He’s clear that he’d rather his wines just sell out before next vintage - which explains the affordable prices. Several of his higher profile Barossa neighbours regularly suggest he up his prices. It’ll come as no surprise that despite his lack of cool marketing, Marco has no trouble selling out of his wines every year.
Marco’s ancestors were wine growers in Calabria and it was his father Vincent, after whom his entry level wine is named, who arrived in Australia as an 8-year-old boy back in 1946, just after the war. The Cirillos moved to the Light Pass district of the Barossa in 1969-70 when Vincent purchased what were, at the time, unloved vineyards containing the oldest surviving productive grenache and semillon vines in the world - planted in 1848!
In true Italian style, Vincent made enough wine for family and friends, but sold the rest of his fruit to a who’s who of top Barossa wineries including; Penfolds, Torbreck, Rockford, Peter Lehmann and St Hallet.
.
Initially Marco resisted the lure of the wine business, but after a brief stint in the automotive industry, he returned to the fold in the late 90s. He spent time at Charles Sturt Uni as well as at several South Australian and Southern Rhône wineries.
Of particular note was time spent at two of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s legendary estates; Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe and Château Rayas. Wow! Marco returned to the family business, taking over from Vincent in 2000 and releasing the first commercial wine under the family name in 2003.
Marco only makes a handful of wines, including two grenaches, both of which are gems.
Cirillo Estate Vincent Grenache 2023
Marco describes this wine as his everyday drinker and believes it should be priced as such. Year in year out, it is one of the best value wines out there.
The fruit for it was sourced from two plots, one planted in 1901 the other 1906. With vines this old, the fruit has to be handpicked to avoid damaging the vine. It was picked in three tranches to obtain a judicious mixture of acid, tannin and ripeness. Clever.
Marco uses natural yeasts and prefers minimal additions and minimal intervention - all things you might associate with a ‘natural’ winemaker - just don’t go calling him that. Marco describes himself as more of an old-school winemaker with patience and common sense. He also stressed to me the significance of keeping his winery super clean - essential when making wine this way, to prevent risk of bacterial spoilage.
Given Marco’s reluctance, you can imagine my surprise when I saw the previous vintage of this wine included in Max Allen’s Top 20 Drinks of 2023, and it also managed to be reviewed by a few other high-profile critics.
Here’s what Max Allen had to say: “I first tasted this when I visited Marco Cirillo in the Barossa earlier this year working on a feature about how old-vine grenache, once overlooked and undervalued, is now one of the most sought-after wines in Australia. This example is produced from grenache grown in two vineyards, one planted in 1901, the other in 1906: it’s a super-vibrant and bold wine, full of flavours of dusky rose petal, black raspberry and a sprinkling of spice. Snappy, bright, dusty tannins, a joyful slurpy juiciness. Very moreish and outstanding value.”
And the 2023 is in the same vein.
100% grenache and made with only a light touch of old oak, this wine is always fresh and bright. The wine was fermented in old-style open-top fermenters, and was softly pressed out post ferment, with two thirds spending between 6-8 months in large old oak, the remaining third in stainless steel. The wine was patiently gravity settled prior to bottling, so no filtering was required. You can see just how clear it is. The finished wine is 14% alcohol and sealed with a screwcap.
This is clear ruby red in the glass. On the nose you’ll find whisps of rose petal, juicy raspberry jubes, vanilla and fennel seed. On the palate, raspberry and pomegranate notes meld with spicy liquorice and pepper. A medium weight wine - deliciously crisp acid and feathery soft tannins deftly bookend this nice dry finish.
“The Vincent offers inviting aromas of rich fruit and white pepper. The palate is generous with intense true varietal characteristics. It’s delicately rounded and generous. A superb Grenache that has a lingering finish. A wine that can be enjoyed now, or well into the future.” Winemaker’s notes.
“Exuberant strawberries and raspberries really jump out of the glass. Medium to full-bodied style, with some fine-grained sandy tannins providing grip and texture. Good sense of purity and freshness, a well-balanced contemporary Grenache. Will need some food if drinking young. Drink cool.” 92 points, Matt Walls, Decanter.
Simply one the of the most underrated and best value wines in the country.
I can offer it for $23.50 a bottle
Cirillo 1850 Ancestor Vine 2017
This wine is made from what is believed to be the oldest grenache vineyard in the world and what a beautiful wine it is, a world away from the big, jammy wines you might expect from the Barossa.
It was matured in a combination of tank and barrel with 20% matured in old wood for just seven months. It then spent five years in tank prior to bottling. The finished wine is 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
Packed with density and complexity, yet so fresh and mid-weight. With several years age on it, it’s drinking beautifully now, but will go for many more years (if well cellared of course) and like all the Cirillo wines, an absolute bargain.
A few critics have got their hands on this wine - check out the great reviews:
“This 2017 old vine Grenache 1850 Ancestor Vine is a little shy at first but then shows breathtaking purity of dark cherry and musky plum with some more exotic cinnamon stick and red licorice hints. The 2017 is beautifully textured and weighted, and despite quite serious underlying power, it remains light on its feet. The excellent vibrancy of fruit is on show and slowly builds layer upon layer of savory roasted meat complexity. Strong ironstone adds backbone to a delightfully perfumed finish. It’s a world beater with killer length and the best 1850 yet from Cirillo.” 98 points, Angus Hughson, Vinous.
“A cooler year that Cirillo enthuses makes for a bit of gristle, this is exceptional. Six-years in tank before release, this full-weighted wine riffs on redder fruits, rather than dark. Raspberry bon-bon, red pastille, rose petal, bergamot and a slake of tannins clad in licorice root and tea tree. Yet there is nothing drying about it as it revels with air, growing more pixelated of tannins, fresher and even more aromatic. Wonderful length. Compelling freshness. This will make fine old bones.” 96 points, Ned Goodwin MW, James Suckling.
“The vineyard that is the source for this wine was planted in 1848 and endures today. The vines are bush vines, but some of the vines have single stakes here and there to support the old wood. It’s a special place... So, this 2017 Ancestor Vines 1850 Grenache flows in the mouth with red berries, finely crushed rocks for tannins, tobacco and pepper berry, pastrami, pink peppercorns, raspberry seed and caper brine. It has a lovely flavor arc in the mouth, supple. It is clear, pure, sensational. I love the tannins. It’s sapid and palate staining but so light!” 96 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate.
Anywhere else in the world a wine of this quality and from a vineyard of this significance would sell for hundreds of dollars a bottle - without a doubt. And while I’m sure with time its price will go up, even when it does, it’ll still be a bargain. At this price it’s a steal.
I can offer it for $70 a bottle SOLD OUT
