The Bordeaux En-Primeur 2023 campaign is now underway, but the wines aren’t scheduled to reach our shores until late 2026. In the meantime, let me tell you a little bit about Bordeaux and its En-Primeur system, and for the first time, I’ll also show you wines from the heralded 2020 vintage, that I have in stock now, so no waiting.
Château Lafite Rothschild.
Bordeaux is arguably the world’s premier quality wine region. Located in southwest France, close to the Atlantic coast, its vineyards lie on either side of the Gironde estuary, as well as along the banks of the two rivers that feed the estuary, the Garonne and the Dordogne. The waterways divide the region into three areas. The Left Bank, that sits to the west of the Gironde and Garonne, The Right Bank that sits to the east of the Gironde, and the area referred to as Entre-Deux-Mers, that sits between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers.
Bordeaux is a large region with about 110,000 ha of vines - about four times the size of Burgundy. There are over 60 appellations within Bordeaux and according to Jancis Robinson MW (Feb 2021) there are 8,800 registered wine-producing châteaux! Despite Bordeaux’s size and its huge number of estates, or chateaux as they are referred to, most of the wine world’s fascination lies with the handful of hallowed Premier Crus or First Growths.
First Growths were officially recognised with the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux. This was not the region’s first classification, nor was it the first time that a hierarchy of so-called Growths or Crus had been proposed. It did however become the benchmark after Napoleon III decided to host the 1855 Universal Exposition in Paris, which called for France’s best agricultural, industrial and cultural products, including wine, to be displayed to the rest of the world. Bordeaux’s 10-member Chamber of Commerce was tasked with creating a classification. Members included Bordeaux’s mayor, a shipbuilder, a cabinetmaker, and professors of physics and design, and can you believe only one merchant who had anything to do with wine. After much faffing around, they finally set up a separate four-man committee, with expertise in wine, that in just 2 weeks completed the quality hierarchy, basing it solely on the then current selling prices.The result was 57 red wines, divided into 5 growths, ascending in quality from 5th to 1st.
The 1885 Classification covered the area known as The Medoc, which is the peninsula that stretches north from the city of Bordeaux (ie. Left Bank) taking in the prestigious communes of St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux. Having said that, and there’s always an exception, it did include one estate, Château Haut-Brion, from Graves, an area just to the south of the city of Bordeaux.
In theory the classification was meant to be an evolving hierarchy, however with so many vested interests, this was never going to be the case, and in practice it became set in stone. There have only been two changes to the classification. In 1856 Château Cantermerle was added to the list of 5th Growths and most famously in 1973 when, after decades of lobbying by Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Château Mouton-Rothschild was elevated from 2nd to 1st Growth. Mind you, it had been achieving prices equal to two of the other 1st growths for close to two centuries.
Since 1885, there have of course been changes to the names and ownership of the original 57 chateaux, as well as divisions and amalgamations of land. These days there are 61 châteaux in the classification, comprising:
First Growth - 5
Second Growth - 14
Third Growth - 14
Fourth Growth - 10
Fifth Growth - 18
Despite the 1855 Classification not taking in the Right Bank (eg Pomerol and St-Émilion) it’s still regarded as theClassification of Bordeaux, with the First Growths enjoying global recognition, not just as the best wines of Medoc, but of Bordeaux and the world for that matter.
Today the 5 first growths are - with tasting profiles provided by Bordeaux expert, Jane Anson MW in Decanter Magazine:
Château Haut-Brion (Pessac Léognan) - Aromatic complexity, richness, depth of fruit.
Château Lafite (Pauillac) - Complex, elegant, extremely long-living.
Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) - Silky texture, caressing tannins, gourmet.
Château Latour (Pauillac) - Textured, powerful, concentrated.
Château Margaux (Margaux) - Graceful, nuanced, perfumed.
Acquiring highly coveted wines like these in Australia isn’t easy. Most are sold En Primeur through La Place de Bordeaux. En Primeur is a system used by the French, most notably the Bordelaise, to sell their wine as futures. This simply means consumers purchase wine at an agreed price now, for delivery at some date in the future.
While forms of en primeur have been used for centuries, post WWII the Bordelaise have been using their own take on the system.“Cask (barrel) samples of wines are customarily shown in the spring, following the vintage. Thousands of trade and media representatives descend on Bordeaux each spring for carefully organized programmes of tastings. Sales are solicited, through brokers and then négociants, as soon as proprietors decide to announce their opening price and market reaction is keenly monitored by interested parties. A particular property often releases only a certain proportion, or tranche, of its total production, depending on its need for cash and reading of the market.” Oxford Companion to Wine.
It’s a bit of a hoopla, as critic’s reviews, and subsequent prices and quantities are released over the campaign. The first wineries usually start releasing in early June and it’s wrapped up by the end of the month, although this year, it’s historically early, and was underway in late April. Buyers make majority payment now and the balance when the wines are delivered, approximately 2 years later.
The issue with these top wines and the en primeur system is that if it’s a good year and you’re after a current release wine, you simply can’t buy them - they’ve all been snaffled up 2 years prior. You have to wait for them to appear on the secondary market, which then means you have to worry about provenance - something you don’t want to leave to chance for such serious outlay.
So I’m very excited to be able to offer you 4 of the First Growths from the highly regarded 2020 vintage, the third in the trio of great vintages, 2018, 2019 and 2020.
I secured all four wines en-primeur and since arrival they’ve been kept in temperature-controlled cabinets.
The reviews speak for themselves. These are simply some of the most desirable wines in the world, and if you’ve ever thought of investing in wines for a significant milestone - these are the ones.
Château Haut Brion 2020
Haut-Brion is located in the appellation of Pessac-Leognan, which prior to 1987 was part of the larger Graves appellation. The estate dates back to the 16th century and was the first red Bordeaux to achieve name recognition outside of France. It was famously referred to in Pepys’ diary in 1663 as ‘Ho Bryan’, as well as in Charles II cellar books from 1660. Thomas Jefferson also praised the estate’s wines when he visited in 1787. The estate had a series of owners through the 18th and 19th centuries, but in 1935 it was purchased by Clarence Dillon, and American banker, whose descendants still run the property. Currently at the helm is Prince Robert of Luxembourg (grandson) and his mother, the Duchess de Mouchy. Since 2004, Jean-Philippe Delmas has been the estate’s manger and these days its 53ha of vineyards lie within the outer suburbs of Bordeaux.
The 2020 is a blend of 42.8% merlot, 39.7% cabernet sauvignon, and 17.5% cabernet franc. It's 15% alcohol.
“Revealing a deep ruby/plum hue, the 2020 exhibits extraordinary aromatics of ripe black fruits, scorched earth, cold fireplace, and acacia flowers. An absolute blockbuster on the palate, this structured, full-bodied, massively concentrated Pessac builds incrementally, with ultra-fine tannins, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a great, great finish. Richer and more concentrated than both the 2018 and 2019 (there are some similarities to 2010), this is a legend in the making. Hide bottles for a decade, and it should evolve for 50-75 years.”
100 points, Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com, March 2023.
“Bursting with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with licorice, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and nicely integrated new oak. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it’s rich and layered, with an enveloping core of fruit that’s girdled by plenty of sweet, powdery tannin. Despite checking in at a similarly lofty alcoholic degree to the 2019, its more granular tannic profile tempers the vintage’s sweetness of fruit and lends the wine a more classically proportioned, and more classically structured, profile. 2030 - 2065.”
99 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate, April 2023.
“Deep garnet-purple in color, it opens with profound blackcurrant cordial, baked plums, and boysenberry preserve notes, leading to an undercurrent of graphite, iron ore, black truffles, and wood smoke, plus a hint of cardamom. The full-bodied palate is tightly knit with black fruit and mineral layers, supported by a rock-solid backbone of grainy tannins and seamless acidity, finishing long and savory.”
99 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent, March 2023.
I can offer it for $1,699 a bottle.
Château Mouton Rothschild 2020
Mouton is located in the appellation of Pauillac. While vineyards have been on the site for centuries, it was not until 1853 that Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild, from the English branch of the banking dynasty, purchased the languishing estate and set about improving it. It was Baron Philippe de Rothschild who not only saw the estate finally attain 1st Growth status in 1973 but was also the first to commission a famous contemporary artist to design a label for estate’s Grand Vin in 1945, a practice that’s subsequently become a hallmark of Mouton and has included works by the likes of Miro, Chagall, Picasso, Dali, Francis Bacon, Jeff Koon and even the then Prince Charles.
The 2020 is a blend of 84% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. The wine is 12.8% alcohol. The label is the work of British painter Peter Doig.
“The 2020 Mouton Rothschild is a striking wine and one that I regretted not purchasing en primeur as soon as it landed in my glass.Offering up complex aromas of minty cassis, pencil shavings, loamy soil, cigar wrapper, espresso roast and violets, it’s medium to full-bodied, broad and layered, with terrific concentrated, beautifully refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Checking in at 12.8% alcohol, its incipient complexity, ineffable sense of completeness and exquisite balance mark it out as the purists’ choice among the trio of 2018, 2019 and 2020. In this vintage, the lots that made it into the blend were largely confined to the core gravel terroirs that represent Mouton’s heart, meaning that there’s a little less to go around. This was the first vintage overseen by Mouton’s new technical director, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, and he has begun with a flying start. 2030 - 2070.”
100 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate, April 2023.
“The purity of blackcurrants, blueberries, creme de cassis, and flowers. Hints of subtle spearmint. Iron. Blood orange. Medium-bodied with a compacted palate, like a cylinder of perfectly ripe fruit and fine tannins. A million layers of tight-grained tannins. It goes on and on. Such freshness and weightlessness to it. Ethereal. New classicism. Modern take on the 1986. 12.79% alcohol. 84% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Drink after 2030 but hard to not drink now.”
100 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, May 2023.
“ Dark fruits on the nose, blackcurrants and cherries with savoury nuances of dark chocolate and tobacco. Fresh and forward on the palate, this hits you square on, still very lean and direct, almost piercing and severe in its intensity and drive, though wonderfully precise: it’s like an arrow. Serious and focussed yet full and layered, the texture is lovely, a slight graininess that lingers but it’s the acidity and the fruit purity that are so excellent - they give such a sense of vibrancy and make this wine so thrilling. You get a feeling of pent-up energy, but after a few minutes the slight density of the ripe fruit comes through, giving some plushness and weight. I love the Cabernet details and the mineral element that leaves the mouth cool and fresh. A well constructed, subtle beauty.”
100 points, Georgina Hindle, Decanter.com, January 2023.
I can offer it for $1,899 a bottle.
Château Margaux 2020
Built in 1811 by the Marquis Douat de Colonilla, Margaux boasts one of the most magnificent château in Bordeaux, the tree-lined driveway and neo-classical façade one of the most recognisable images of the region. Vineyards were developed back in the mid 17th century and by the beginning of the 18th century, the wines of Margaux were already well-known as some of the best ‘new clarets’ in England. More recently, the Greek-born entrepreneur André Mentzelopoulos acquired Château Margaux in 1977 and these days his daughter Corinne runs the 99ha estate.
The 2020 is a blend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot, 2% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc. It’s 13.5% alcohol.
“This has grip and poise, it edges forward with slate textured tannins, not giving too much away at first, but sit with it, because the future brilliance of this Margaux is there to be seen if you take your time. It displays a seriousness of intent that sets it apart in expression from vintages like the 2018, and has dense and powerful red and black fruits along with supple and plentiful tannins that have no intention of relinquishing their hold for decades to come. Gingerbread, liqourice root, grilled sandalwood, red peppers, mint leaf and peony flowers add waves of complexity as it widens and softens through the mid palate, along with raspberry purée and edges of patisserie cream. A Margaux for the ages. 100% new oak, 36hl/h yield after the dry summer.”
100 points, Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com, February 2023.
“Gorgeous aromas of dark plums and violets. Orange peel, too. Some crushed stone. Bark. Stems. Iron shavings. Full-bodied, but very tight and compacted. The tannins are all here making it very structured, yet they are polished and melted together. Needs years to show all of its greatness. Incredible polish and structure. More structured than the 2019. Try after 2030 and beyond.”
100 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, May 2023.
“The 2020 Chateau Margaux is deep garnet-purple in color. After a couple of swirls, notions of blackcurrant pastilles, redcurrant jelly, and juicy black plums soar from the glass, leading to underlying suggestions of dark chocolate, candied violets, cast-iron pan, and forest floor. The medium-bodied palate is satiny smooth, vibrant, and energetic, featuring floral, mineral, and black fruit layers, finishing very long and shimmery.”
99 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent, March 2023.
I can offer it for $1,999 a bottle.
Château Lafite Rothschild 2020
Lafite is located in the appellation of Pauillac and is regarded by many as the first of the First Growths, with its price reflecting this. Vineyards have been on the site for several centuries, but the estate had come to prominence for the quality of its wines by the 17th century. The wine has had many famous devotees - notably Thomas Jefferson, who visited Bordeaux in May 1787, while serving as ambassador for the young United States Republic. Baron James de Rothschild purchased the Château Lafite in 1868, changing the name to Château Lafite Rothschild. It has remained in the family’s hands since, except for a period when it was occupied and heavily plundered by German forces during WWII.
The 2020 is a blend of 92% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot and 1% petit verdot. It’s 12.8% alcohol.
“As Lafite as Lafite gets, this ultra-classic reveals a dense ruby/plum hue as well as a tight, yet layered bouquet of ripe blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, freshly sharpened pencils, graphite, and subtle spice. Flawlessly balanced, deep, concentrated, and layered, it has an incredible mid-palate, building, perfect tannins, and a finish that leaves you salivating. Refined, elegant, and perfection are the buzz words here. Unfortunately, it’s not for the instant gratification crowd, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see this require 15 years to hit the early stages of its prime drinking window. It will probably hit its 100th birthday in fine form.”
100 points, Jeb Dunnuck, March 2023
“Amazing aromas here with tobacco, crushed stone, cigar box, currants, tar, and lead pencil, as well as spices, iron, and dried ginger. Medium-to-full-bodied, with a density and tightness. Very compact and complex. Racy. Delicacy with strength. Orange peel undertones. A wine to contemplate. You must understand it to understand the great Lafites of the past and those of the future. Best after 2030, but drink it if you have the chance taste it."
100 points, James Suckling, May 2023.
“Deep garnet-purple in color, it slowly unfurls to offer very pure, intense scents of crushed blackcurrants, fresh plums, and blackberries, plus suggestions of violets, cinnamon stick, fertile loam, and tapenade with a touch of tar. The light-bodied palate is very tightly knit with many black fruit, mineral, and fragrant earth layers and a firm backbone of grainy tannins, finishing long and earthy. A bright, bright, shiny Lafite! It needs a good 12-15 years!”
98 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, March 2023.
I can offer it for $2,500 a bottle.
And two other 2020 Left Banks that I couldn’t resist…
Château Smith Haute Lafitte 2020
Smith-Haut-Lafitte (double ‘t’) is located in the left bank appellation of Pessac-Leognan, just to the south of the city of Bordeaux. The appellation was created in 1987 from the most celebrated area of Graves and is home to Château Haut-Brion and La Mission-Haut-Brion. A classification of Graves was established in 1953 and updated in 1959, recognising 16 Crus Classes de Graves, one of which was, and still is, Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte. Earliest records of vines at the estate date back to the 14th century, but it was not until the mid-18th century, when Scottish wine merchant George Smith acquired the estate and named it after himself, that it became known as Smith-Haut-Lafitte. The estate passed through many hands, until in 1990 the Cathiard family acquired it and transformed it. As Stephen Brook noted in The Complete Bordeaux 3rd edition: “Other rich owners have made dramatic improvements to their estates but they all pale into insignificance compared to the Cathiards.” Top consultants were engaged, and no expense spared in the vineyard (organically certified in 2019) and winery. They are also one of the few estates with their own cooperage (barrel making).
The label is usually yellow, however a special black label for the 2020 vintage celebrates the 30th harvest of the Cathiard family at the head the estate.
The 2020 is a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. It’s 14.5% alcohol.
“Absolutely pure gold and reminding me of the 2009 (or is it the 2010?), the 2020 Château Smith Haut Lafitte sports a dense purple hue to go with incredible aromatics of blackberries, blueberries, scorched earth, wood smoke, and acacia flowers. One of the most concentrated, rich, and sexy wines in the vintage, this massive and extraordinarily opulent 2020 shows the vintage’s pure, elegant profile yet backs it up with sensational levels of fruit and texture. It already offers pleasure given its wealth of fruit, but it deserves 7-8 years of bottle age and will evolve for 40-50 years. Not enough can be said about the quality of these wines.” 100 points, Jeb Dunnuck, May 2023.
“Extremely fresh and deep in the nose with raspberry and blackcurrant character, as well as stone, fresh green tobacco and ink. Full-bodied with a dense center palate and gorgeous fine yet steely tannins. It calms down at the end with berries, citrus and some lavender. Salty at the end. Very minerally. Flinty. From organically grown grapes. Give it four or five years to come around.” 99 points, James Suckling, May 2023.
“Deep garnet-purple in color, it storms out of the glass with powerful scents of creme de cassis, wild blueberries, and redcurrant preserves, followed by suggestions of cedar chest, charcuterie, cast-iron pan, and black truffles, with a touch of menthol. The full-bodied palate is densely laden with black fruit layers offset by mineral and red berry accents, supported by firm, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and earthy.” 98 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, March 2023.
The reviews for a wine of this price are incredible.
I can offer it for $399 a bottle (6 bottles only).
Château Cos d’Estournel 2020
Cos d’Estournel is a 2nd Growth estate located in St-Estéphe. The 100ha site sits in the south of the appellation, right on the border with Pauillac, just north of Château Lafite. Cos d’Estournel is regarded as the leading estate in St Estéphe and is one of a small bunch of so-called super seconds. The estate was established in the early 19th century, when Louis Gaspard Lacoste of Maniban Marquis d’Estournel inherited some vineyards near the village of Cos. It was he who built the exotic oriental styled chateau that has become a landmark in the Médoc.
2020 marks the 20th anniversary of the Second Growth’s acquisition by Michel Reybier. To mark the occasion the estate bottled the2020 vintage in a unique, black and gold engraved bottle featuring the property’s distinctive château and its pagodas.
The 2020 is a blend of 62% cabernet sauvignon and 38% merlot and is 13.5% alcohol.
“A first-growth level wine. With aristocratic ease it conveys nimble energy and sneaky sensuality. Pencil lead, white tobacco, cassis, juicy blackberry and cherry gorgeously delineated with refined tannins providing impressive structure for long-term cellaring. The pH is the highest since 2003, but you get neither heat nor imbalance. Impressive dry extract and rather ‘normal’ alcohol at 13.5% evokes a positively classic feel, leading to a subtle yet super-long finish. For owner Michel Reybier, the vintage marks 20 years of ‘passion at the helm’. Comes encased in a uniquely gold-coloured engraved bottle with the phrase ‘C’était Cos sinon rien’ - Cos or nothing else.” 99 points, Panos Kakaviatos, Decanter, Feb 2023.
“The deep purple-hued 2020 Château Cos D’Estournel has, dare I say, an almost Lafite-like sense of elegance and class, offering gorgeous cassis and darker currant fruits as well as tobacco, lead pencil, acacia flowers, and graphite. This flawless, full-bodied, incredibly elegant Saint-Estèphe has silky tannins, perfect balance, and a great, great finish. It will need a decade of cellaring to hit its prime drink window. Of the trilogy of 2018, 2019, and 2020, it’s clearly my favorite (that’s splitting hairs), with a similarity to the 2016, and will most likely merit another point at maturity. *#2 Wine of the Year 2023*” 99 points, Jeb Dunnuck, April 2023.
“A brooding and deep wine just on the nose, with blackcurrants, redcurrants, spices such as cardamom and nutmeg, as well as black truffles with earth. Complex. Full-bodied with fine yet chewy tannins, that are wonderfully interwoven. Very structured and long. Needs five to six years to come around. Try after 2028.” 98 points, James Suckling, May 2023.
“The 2020 Cos d’Estournel has a deep garnet-purple color. It is very closed at this youthful stage but with much shaking it opens out to vivacious notes of crushed blackcurrants, juicy blackberries, kirsch, and cinnamon stick, plus suggestions of star anise, lilacs, and crushed rocks. The medium-bodied palate shimmers with energetic black fruit and mineral layers, supported by fine-grained, beautifully ripe tannins and seamless freshness, finishing very long and fragrant. A very elegant expression of Cos, and absolutely beguiling!” 98 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, March 2023.
I can offer it for $599 a bottle.
