A question posed at a recent wine seminar - if you could only ever drink wine from one region, which would it be, and why? Gee, that’s a tough one, but I still knew immediately… Mosel. But then I countered myself with Yarra Valley.
With all the regions in the world to choose from, this might sound like a parochial choice, but name another region that produces benchmark chardonnay, cabernet, shiraz and pinot noir, as well as top quality sparkling wine. You’ll also find myriad other varieties here like merlot, nebbiolo, sangiovese, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, viognier and even some decent riesling - albeit in much smaller quantities and not quite the same dazzling quality, but surely enough to keep any wine drinker’s attention for a long time.
The best of the Yarra is showcased at the annual Yarra Valley Wine Show, usually held in August-September each year, but last year held in November due to covid, with results announced in December. It’s a big event, with a slew of top names represented - Yarra Yering, Yering Station, Giant Steps, Coldstream Hills, Domaine Chandon, Oakridge and Thousand Candles, to name just a few.
Several category winners were announced, but it was Medhurst Estate who took home the ultimate glory, with their 2021 Medhurst Yarra Valley Chardonnay awarded:
This is the estate’s entry level chardonnay… a simply stunning result for any wine, let alone a sub $30 bottle. As a fan of Medhurst and its winemaker Simon Steele for many years, here’s where I say ‘I told you so.’ It’s the only sub $30 chardonnay that I carry.
I’ve told the Medhurst story before but here’s a quick recap. A relative newcomer, the estate is located just north of the town of Gruyere, alongside stalwarts Warramate, Yarra Yering and Coldstream Hills. These are the only 4 wineries tucked away in this special microclimate which produces some of the best wines in the region.
Ross and Robyn Wilson acquired Medhurst in the mid 90s, naming it after the road on which the property lies. But their connection to the area goes back much further. Robyn spent much of her childhood here and the couple were married across the road from the estate 40 years ago.
Ross Wilson is an energetic, larger-than-life character with a passion for surfing, sailing and cool climate wines. Originally from Melbourne, he put his degree in economics to good use as a surfboard shaper, before forging a highly successful corporate career. As CEO from 1987-1994 he transformed the modest packaging and brewing firm of SA Brewing into the wine industry leviathan Southcorp. Under his guidance the company became one of the largest wine companies in Australia, acquiring several of the country’s most iconic producers including Penfolds, Lindemans and Wynns. After his stint at Southcorp, Ross made the highly publicised move to Tabcorp in Victoria, where he was CEO from 1994-2002. The float and subsequent rise in the share price were well documented in the press. He’s also a past board member of Wine Victoria.
Ross has a passion for wine as well as a genuine bond with, and access to excellent land. He has knowledge, experience and past successes and the drive, energy and enthusiasm to make it all happen, as well as two must haves in wine, a long-term vision and patience. He also has pockets deep enough to see it all through.
In 2000 he planted sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet and shiraz. The years at Southcorp gave Ross access to some of the best viticulturists in the country, providing expert advice on where and how to plant. There are now 35 acres of vines on the estate.
A new winery was built in 2010-11. It’s a highly practical, state-of-the-art building, perfect for small batch, high quality wine. The striking building seems to almost slice into the hillside, perfectly combining form and function. It won the Victorian Architectural Award for commercial design in 2012, as well as a commendation from the National Australian Institute of Architects in the same year. It was also shortlisted for the production/energy/recycling category of the World Architecture Festival Awards in 2013.
Talented winemaker Simon Steele joined Medhurst in late 2014. Simon gained his winemaking qualifications from The University of Adelaide (Roseworthy) and comes with some serious credentials. He’s spent time in Burgundy, Languedoc Roussillon, Rioja, Ribera Del Duero, Margaret River, Yarra Valley, Hunter Valley and the Adelaide Hills. He’s also worked for some big names in Australia including Shaw & Smith, Shadowfax, Hardy’s and even Chapoutier. Immediately prior to Medhurst he spent 3 years as chief winemaker at Brokenwood, during which time the winery won many accolades. Not only is Simon a highly competent and well-respected winemaker, he’s a nice guy to boot.
Ross’s patience putting the pieces into place for long-term success has paid off, with Medhurst receiving serious recognition. The estate has been awarded numerous trophies, gold medals, 95+ point reviews and praise from the critics. James Halliday rates Medhurst 5 stars and in his most recent Wine Companion, several of the wines scored 95 and above.
An enormous amount of care is lavished on Medhurst’s wines, both in the vineyard and the winery. All the fruit is grown on the estate and yields in the vineyard are super low. Picking is done entirely by hand and the wines are all fermented using wild yeasts. This sort of attention, and the resulting quality, costs a lot of money. Back in 2015 I wrote how the wines are all modestly priced, noting “the incredible value for money is no doubt a deliberate strategy, but one that can’t last indefinitely. Even at significantly higher prices I still think the wines will represent great value for money.” Prices are now slightly higher, but not significantly, and yes, I still stand by them being great value. It’s interesting to note that Halliday, as well as rating Medhurst’s wines highly, also awards many of them his coveted Special Value Rating.
As you can imagine, after this extraordinary result, everyone is after Medhurst wines. But I’m glad to say that Bottle and Glass customers’ past support of Medhurst, meant that I was able to secure some of this award winner. Bear in mind only 300-500 cases are made each year, so there’s never going to be a lot of it.
2021 was a great vintage for whites in the Yarra, with James Halliday awarding it 10/10, his first 10 for Yarra whites since 1992. The Medhurst Yarra Valley Chardonnay is traditionally sourced from a handful of carefully selected Yarra vineyards, but these days the demand for Yarra fruit is so high, it’s nearly impossible to procure. So, since 2018 it’s been made entirely from a single vineyard on the estate. The fruit was handpicked, whole bunch pressed and fermented in French oak (20% new) using natural yeasts, for about a month. After that, the wine spent 8 months in oak before blending with full solids (the dead yeast cells and any other solid matter that sinks to the bottom) into tank. The wine was bottled with minimal filtration in December 2021, finishing up at 13% alcohol and sealed with screwcap.
Medhurst Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2021
“Pale, translucent greens and light straw, brilliant in the glass. The nose is complex with hints of gunflint and stone fruit. Some classy French oak spice influence, it’s enticing and intense. The palate is poised and powerful, oak in the background, it simply helps usher the beautiful pure fruit to the back of an effortlessly long and fine palate. This wine will look terrific over the medium term.” Winemaker’s notes.
I can offer it for $29.50 a bottle (limited). SOLD OUT
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I have two other award-winning wines from the Medhurst stable that might interest you.
Medhurst Estate Chardonnay 2021
A step up in complexity and flavour from the Yarra Valley.
“Whole-bunch pressed to puncheons, hogsheads and barriques, 35% new. A natural yeast fermentation, 10% malolactic fermentation. A very bright green gold. Beautifully crafted, you'll find white nectarines, grapefruit pith, orange blossom, jasmine, subtle peony and very subtle struck match. An essay in chardonnay purity, this taut, powerful and beautifully balanced wine tapers into a long, satisfying and saline finish.”
97 points and a Special Value Rating, James Halliday Wine Companion.
Included in Top Rated Chardonnay Category in James Halliday’s Wine Companion 2023.
I can offer it for $40 a bottle.
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Medhurst Rosé 2021
Year in, year out, my favourite Aussie rosé.
“The pale salmon hue reflects whole-bunch-pressed cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, fermented off skins. Wafts of perfume float in the air, rose petals to the fore. The unexpectedly intense fruits span spices, light and dark, and small forest berries. Typical Medhurst class.”
95 points and a Special Value Rating, James Halliday Wine Companion.
Included in Top Rated Rosé Category in James Halliday’s Wine Companion 2023.
Voted ‘Best Rose’ at the 2021 Yarra Valley Wine Show.
I can offer it for $27 a bottle. SOLD OUT
