Tassie pinot is really enjoying its moment in the sun and one of my favourites has to be Pooley Wines.
Pooley was established in 1985 by Denis and Margaret Pooley when they planted a few rows of pinot noir and riesling on their 16ha property Cooinda Vale near Campania, on the picturesque banks of the Coal River, 35km north of Hobart.
It’s hard to imagine now, but back then planting vines was a questionable move, such was the infancy of the Tasmanian wine industry. But it actually showed great foresight. The ensuing decades saw what started as a retirement project, flourish and prosper, eventually becoming a highly regarded estate, producing premium cool-climate wines.
In 2003 Denis and Margaret’s son John and his wife Libby purchased Belmont, an historic Georgian heritage-listed home on the outskirts of the charming, picture-perfect town of Richmond. Belmont was built in the mid 1830s by a Hobart wine and spirit merchant, Benjamin Guy, so its return to a wine family was serendipitous. The slope on which Belmont sits, is also heritage listed, as it was the site from which all the sandstone that built Richmond village and its famous bridge, was quarried. Here John and Libby set about planting what became known as Butcher’s Hill vineyard.
John and Libby’s son Matthew Pooley has worked as viticulturalist with the family since the 1990s. Their daughter Anna Pooley is a qualified winemaker, with experience at some of the big names of Australian wine, as well as time in Tuscany and Austria, where she worked at Salomon Undof (a favourite of mine), where she learnt about making great riesling. In 2013 Anna returned to the family business, and with winemaker husband Justin Bubb, has been making all the wines at Pooley.
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Pooley was awarded Winery of the year 2023 at James Halliday’s Wine Companion Awards.
“The trajectory of ascension of their wines has been nothing short of breathtaking, with quality rising emphatically with every season, all the while doubling production, since Anna and husband Justin Bubb returned to Tasmania to establish the winemaking arm of the family estate in 2012.” James Halliday.
Pooley Pinot Noir 2023
The fruit for this wine was sourced from a combination of Butcher’s Hill, Cooinda Vale and select vineyards from the Coal River Valley. It was matured for 11 months in French oak, of which 10% was new.
“Bright notes of fresh raspberry, cherries and black pepper on the nose with an underlying layer of mineral and cacao. On the palate, it’s persistent with generous red fruits, cedar, subtle game, and a dusting of aniseed. It’s delicately balanced with fine tannin and brilliant acidity.”
Winemaker Anna Pooley's notes: “Quite dark, vibrant and deep in the glass. Lifted and heady aromas of blueberry, dried herbs, sap, spice, dark cherry, clovey oak and white pepper. The palate is full-flavoured and fleshy, with lashings of blue and red fruits, along with spice, bramble and a woodsy lift. A bigger framed pinot noir that is built for the long haul, but also drinks very nicely now.” 95 points, Aaron Brasher, The Real Review.
This really is benchmark Tassie pinot.
I can offer it for $55 a bottle
Pooley Jack Denis Pooley Pinot Noir 2022
The highly anticipated and very limited 2022 Jack Denis Pooley Pinot Noir is the 7th release of the estate’s esteemed flagship wine, intended to showcase the very best of Cooinda Vale.
“Brooding notes of cedar, violets, cherry and warming spice on the nose. Blackberries, wild mushroom and black cherries delight the palate with underlying notes of earth and savoury tobacco. There’s a measured restraint to this wine with a crushed velvet texture and pitch-perfect acidity.” Winemaker's notes.
“Sourced from the Cooinda Vale Vineyard near Campania in the Coal River Valley; 20% whole bunch, matured for 11 months in 50% new French oak barriques. A step up in fruit intensity but still with the characteristic grace that is the leitmotif of the Pooley wines. Darker fruits - cherry, plum, forest berries cut with violets, vanilla, mushroom broth, dried tobacco, allspice and forest floor. Less gamey than other wines in the Pooley quiver but so long and harmonious, tannins compact and powdery and a sapid, umami angle to the fine acidity.” 97 points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion.
I can offer it for $195 a bottle
Pooley also makes some wonderful riesling and I have a few bottles of their single vineyard beauties.
Pooley Cooinda Vale Vineyard Riesling 2022
“Pristine line, green apple and lemon fruit notes with underlying hints of crème fraîche, citrus blossom, grapefruit pith and crushed stone. Savoury and pure with a crystalline acid presence and a distinct umami note on the finish as the lime and lemon fruits sail off into the distance. Fantastic stuff.” 96 points, Halliday’s Wine Companion and a Special Value Rating.
“Delicate notes of spiced nectarines, fennel, crushed rocks and lime zest lead into a taut palate. The core is simmering with energy, fine chewy phenolics add scaffolding to the intense palate. This is seamless and flowing, an extraordinarily youthful riesling. The pedigreed fruit is allowed to shine through, thanks to judicious winemaking.” 95 Points, Gabrielle Poy, The Real Review.
I can offer it for $65 a bottle
Pooley Butcher’s Hill Riesling 2022
“Whole-bunch pressed and fermented in tank with a further five months on fine lees in old French oak. Pristine fruit and unwavering precision = a beautiful wine. Green apple and lime fruits, wildflowers, crushed stone and grapefruit pith with liminal glimpses of lemon curd. It sports a wicked tubular palate shape of pure citrus fruits and rides on mineral-laden rails of acidity, all focus, velocity and detail. Tremendous length of flavour and sustain here.” 96 points, Halliday’s Wine Companion and a Special Value Rating.
I can offer it for $65 a bottle
