Ask any winemaker from the Barossa and they’ll tell you it’s the best place in the world to grow grapes. Local bias aside, it’s pretty fair to say the Barossa is recognised as one of the great wine regions of the world.
The Barossa Valley lies about 60km northeast of Adelaide and while originally settled by the Brits, much of the region’s Germanic culture comes from Silesian (ie. Prussian) Lutheran immigrants who settled here in the mid 1830s. The origin of the Barossa name is care of Colonel William Light, who fought in the Battle of Barrosa (note the two Rs and one S) near Cadiz in Spain in 1811. The different spelling is a clerical error that stuck.
The climate in the Barossa is considered Mediterranean, typified by warm to hot summers and moderate rainfall mainly during mild winters. Pretty nice really. While over 40 different grape varieties are grown here, the signature variety is of course shiraz, which in 2022-23 accounted for an astounding 68% of the region’s crush (source: Wine Australia). There are other important reds and whites, most notably notable grenache, mataro and cabernet, as well as riesling, chardonnay and semillon.
During the 90s the Barossa became known for a style that suited the palate of influential US wine critic Robert Parker. Characterised by high alcohol, rich, ripe fruit, and masses of sweet new oak, it was first brought to prominence in the Barossa by Torbreck in the mid-90s.
But it wasn’t long before a small bunch of winemakers were looking to challenge the so-called ‘Parkerisation’ of the Barossa, and redefine the classic Barossa red, giving rise to wines that were made in a leaner, less-oaked and more savoury style.
At the forefront of this new wave of Barossa winemakers was NZ-born Peter Schell and his French-born wife Magali Gely, who established Spinifex in 2001 and have since become one of the Barossa’s most exciting and highly regarded producers.
Peter is a trained oenologist (winemaker) and has made wine in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Provence, Languedoc, Switzerland and NZ, and Magali’s family has been growing wine near Montpellier for over 10 generations. The couple source their fruit from a small group of dedicated growers in both the Barossa and Eden Valleys, concentrating on varieties from the south of France.
“Pete [Schell] and his partner Magali Gely operate what I think is the best new-wave of small-scale Barossa wine companies to emerge at the beginning of the 21st century… These weren’t big, blockbuster, showy wines designed to impress. They were wines that managed to take the best of the Barossa’s sometimes forgotten varietal traditions and fuse them onto a very European flavour sensibility.” Max Allen, The Future Makers.
“Wonderful to touch base again with Spinifex wines. In the cornucopia of avant garde producers, sometimes it’s great to look back at those who were there at the genesis, and revel in their consistency and continuation at a high level.” Mike Bennie, The Wine Front.
“Last year he was a finalist for Gourmet Traveller Winemaker of the Year. Small wonder Spinifex has five red stars in the 2021 Halliday Wine Companion. If all this isn’t enough, the prices are a breath of fresh air.” James Halliday, The Weekend Australian Magazine.
“Peter Schell, a New Zealander transplanted to the Barossa, is one of the stars of the region, producing composed, elegant wines from vineyards across the region.” James Suckling.
Peter’s been at the top of his game for over 20 years, offering a leaner, brighter and fresher style of Barossa that’s hard not to like. He makes a wide range of excellent wines, including several interesting whites, a couple of super-duper rosés and some delicious reds. While Peter knocks out a few wines that sell for over $100 a bottle, it’s his current batch of entry-level wines, all under 30 bucks, that really grabbed me when I recently tasted them.
Here are my picks of the bunch and I can’t stress enough just how fresh, vibrant, drinkable and above all affordable these three wines are. You’re going to love them.
Spinifex Vermentino 2023
Vermentino goes under various names (pigato, rolle and favorita) and is the most planted white variety in the Southern Rhône, Corsica and Sardinia. It tends to be fresh and light, with floral and citrus flavours, but it’s also possible to find examples that are fuller and more textured.
The fruit for this wonderful example was sourced from a one-acre vineyard in one of the highest parts of Koonunga Hill in the Barossa’s extreme north. The grapes spent 6 hours on skins (ie. juice and split grapes left to soak together) pre-ferment, and the wine was fermented using wild yeasts.
I love this wine because it somehow manages to perfectly capture the fresh, light and aromatic elements of vermentino, combining it with a generous texture.
In the glass, this is a clear, light gold. On the nose, white peach and honeysuckle meld with melon, honey and nutty notes. On the palate you’ll find sweet lemon zinginess and burnt toffee notes, offset by lovely stony mineraliness. And a luscious weight and viscosity makes every mouthful of this wine a pleasure. Yum.
“It's a pure and textured Barossa white with waxy lemon, white blossoms and a touch of chalkiness. From a cool and long season, the palate is pithy and fresh, full of zip and with a breezy, grippy saline close. It would challenge many a top Italian example.” Bibendum Wine Co.
“This throws a bloom of scent and flavour. It’s unreasonably delicious. Bunches of flowers, custard powder, citrus, brine and stonefruit. Texture that seems to lift right out from the fruit. As they say in the classics: yes plus.” 93 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front.
You’ll find it at the groovy Nomad restaurant in Surry Hills for $75 a bottle.
I can offer it for $26 a bottle.
Spinifex Papillon 2022
The 2022 Papillon is a blend of 87% cinsault and 13% grenache. The majority of the cinsault was sourced from a plot of pre-Great-War vines (1910) in Ebenezer, with the balance sourced from a 40-year-old sandy plot in Bethany. The grenache came from a plot of vines planted around 1890 in Vine Vale. All three parcels were fermented as whole berries and matured in a mix of old, large oak foudres and stainless-steel tanks. The finished wine is a very drinkable 12% alcohol and is sealed with a screwcap.
The fresh and moderate conditions of 2022 have delivered one of the most consumable renditions of Papillon seen in some years.
In the glass this is a clear, light rosey red. On the nose you’ll find notes of plum, blueberry, rose petal, mushroom and hint of vanilla. On the palate, raspberry jube and pomegranate mingle with pepper notes. This is nice and dry with bright and crisp acid. And tannins provide structure without being centre stage. A fresh quaffable light and bright drop.
“Pretty and aromatic - bright red currant, raspberry, red rose petal and dried spice perfume. Light, fresh palate - spiced red cherry and tart red plums fruit flavours lead dried spice and delicate dried herb and spice notes on a finish kept nervy and fresh with plum, skin like acids and fine, light tannin.” Winemaker’s notes.
“It’s a light, mouthwatering, fresh style of red with its core of sweet raspberry and red licorice flavour surrounded by dry spice and roasted nut characters. In short, it’s delicious. Frisky but with flavour; sweet-fruited but with ample savoury nuance. It’s more-ish plus plus.” 92 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front.
“I'm a huge fan of Peter Schell's Papillon, this year a blend of 87/13% cinsault/grenache. It’s fragrant and pretty with a spaciousness and sense of detail that predates the majority of the wines that today present in a pleasant vin de soif style. Red fruited and spicy with notes of dried meats and citrus blossom, dried herbs and cranberry. An oh-so-easy-to-drink style with chalky tannins and red apple-like acidity. It’s a ripper.” 95 points, Dave Brookes, The Wine Companion.
You’ll find it at the tasty Viand restaurant in Woolloomooloo for $75 a bottle.
Absolutely delicious.
I can offer it for $27 a bottle.
Spinifex Syrah 2021
2021 was a great year in the Barossa, Langtons giving it a 9/10 in its vintage chart, and it really shows it in this wonderfully fresh and vibrant wine.
The fruit was sourced from elevated, cooler vineyards with vine age ranging from 25 through to an incredible 100 years. A variety of winemaking techniques were utilised, with different proportions of whole-bunch, whole berry and destemmed fruit, fermented in a combination of stainless steel, concrete and mostly large, seasoned oak (only one new barrel was used), the overall being soft extraction. Maturation post ferment was for around 8 months, in a variety of large-format vessels. The finished wine is a very exact 14.07% alcohol and is sealed with a screw cap.
In the glass this is a dark velvety red. On the nose - take 5 minutes to let this properly open up and you’ll find plum and chocolate with a hint of tar. On the palate, dense plummy notes contrast with hints of spicy pepper and peat. Subtle tannins help create a smooth and silky texture. Juicy and very quaffable.
“Aromas of ripe blackberries, plums, and dark cherries balance well with nuances of black pepper, liquorice, and a subtle hint of smoky oak. Pouring into the glass, it reveals a deep, inky purple hue, hinting at its concentration and intensity. Velvety tannins integrate well with the dark fruit flavours, this syrah is impeccably balanced, with a vibrant acidity that provides a refreshing lift and delicacy, making it both a perfect partner for hearty dishes and a delightful sipper on its own.” Archie Woodhouse.
"Deep purple red in the glass, it’s a rollicking, crunchy, bright and sapid ride with a gorgeous plume of plummy fruit, cut with spice and floral nuance, whole-bunch amaro notes and a sense of space, clarity and detail that brings a smile to the face. Such a wonderful drink and great value.” 94 points, Dave Brookes, Wine Companion.
“Impressive wine. Spicy and ‘bunchy’ but blessed with a flood of juicy, sweet, ripe fruit flavour. This gets the juices flowing. Blackberry, licorice, rounds of twiggy herbs, a general sweet earth character and an understated - and integrated - cedarwood aspect. Lovely wine. Generous but contained.” 94 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front.
You’ll find it overlooking the harbour at the glorious Aria restaurant for $80 a bottle.
The epitome of the new Barossa. Power without the punch.
I can offer it for $28 a bottle.
