After my Bordeaux 2020 offer a few weeks ago which concentrated on the Left Bank, let’s now take a look at the Right Bank. This famous region sits on the eastern side of the Gironde Estuary or more specifically, the northeast side of one of its two tributaries, the Dordogne River. The two most important right bank appellations are Pomerol and St-Emilion, which is my focus today.
The medieval town of St-Emilion is known as the most beautiful village in Bordeaux and, with its surrounding vineyards, is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unlike the gravelly left bank, the soil in St-Emilion tends to be clay, making it well-suited to merlot, which accounts for around 70% of plantings. Compare this with Pauillac on the left bank, where cabernet usually accounts for over 80% of plantings in vineyards.
As a varietal, merlot is often described as soft, supple, ripe and round, with flavours of cherry, plum and chocolate. Merlot is often blended with other varieties, most notably cabernet, with the merlot providing mid-palate weight and softness, while the cabernet adds colour, tannin and distinct aromatics. Despite the variety’s association with softness, merlot, or merlot-dominant wines from Bordeaux, especially St-Emilion, have the potential to be some of the most structured, deep and age-worthy wines in the world.
The most famous classification of Bordeaux was the Official Classification of 1855, which graded estates in order of importance, from 5th up to 1st growth (or cru). Despite its all-encompassing name, this was actually only a classification of Medoc, an area on the left bank. St-Emilion didn’t implement its own classification system until 1955 and it was different to the 1855 classification,
St-Emilion has two appellations, St-Emilion (AOC) and St-Emilion Grand Cru (AOC). The 1955 classification system picked out the best Grand Cru (AOC) estates, identifying them as Grand Cru Classé and graded them in ascending order as follows:
I’ve always found it a little confusing, and potentially deceptive, as Grand Cru is a well-known designation, long used for the highest quality vineyard sites in Burgundy - whereas in St-Emilion it’s a generic appellational description. As the Oxford Companion to Wine observes; “Several hundred properties are accorded the misleadingly grand-seeming St-Émilion Grand Cru status.”
While the 1855 Classification has only seen two changes since inception, the St-Emilion classification was intended to be amended every 10 years, although it ended up doing so in 1958, 1969, 1985, 1996, 2006, 2012 and 2022.
The initial 1955 classification saw Château Ausone and Château Cheval Blanc as the only two Premier Grand Cru Classé A estates. They were joined by Château Pavie and Château L’Angélus, in 2012, making it four at the top.
While classifications affect the perceived quality and price of wines, they also obviously affect the value of estates, and so the amendment process has led to significant controversy and legal action, especially following the 2006 and 2012 classifications. Most recently disputes came to a head in the lead up to the 2022 classification, in which judging was based on scores made up of:
Grands Crus Classés:
Premiers Grands Crus Classés:
In July 2021 Cheval Blanc and Ausone (the two original Classé A’s) separately withdrew from the classification, both citing issues surrounding the judging criteria.
Cheval Blanc claimed it noticed “a profound change in the philosophy of the classification in 2012, citing marketing drift such as the importance of product placement, how often an estate appears in media, including PR and in social media, along with wine tourism infrastructure, and said they no longer wanted to be considered.” (Decanter Magazine).
Château Ausone’s co-owner, Pauline Vauthier, “stressed that her family’s choice to leave the St-Emilion classification wasn’t made ‘in concert’ with Château Cheval Blanc, but echoed the same reasoning. “We had been mulling over our decision for a long time, and finally decided to opt out (of the classification)” she said. “Marketing and wine tourism are very nice things, but the measure of great wine comes down to terroir, viticulture and time.” (Decanter Magazine).
Wow! But wait there’s more…
In October 2021, after ten years of proceedings, Hubert de Boüard, co-owner of Angelus was found guilty by a Bordeaux tribunal of knowingly using his public roles to illegally manipulate the 2012 St-Emilion classification. At the time, amongst several other influential positions he held, de Boüard was a member of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO), which oversaw the classification process. During his tenure, his own winery Angelus was elevated to the top level of Premier Grand Cru Classé A and several other estates he was involved with also received elevations. Boüard was fined €40,000. He withdrew Angelus from the Classification in January 2022, condemning the court decision as an “injustice”.
I’m sure the good Burghers of St-Emilion like to think that 2022 has bought a decade of disputes and court battles to an end, but I’m not so sure.
As of 2022 there are 85 Grand Cru Classé wines in the St-Emilion Classification:
I mentioned in my previous newsletter the ins and outs of the en-primeur system. If it’s a good year, like 2020, and you’re after a current release wine, you simply can’t buy them as they’ve all been snaffled up 2 years prior. You must wait for them to appear on the secondary market, which means you have to worry about provenance - something you don’t want to leave to chance for such serious outlay.
So I’m very excited to be able to offer you the pick of the crop from St-Emilion’s highly regarded 2020 vintage, the third in the trio of great vintages, 2018, 2019 and 2020.
I secured all wines en-primeur and since arrival they’ve been kept in temperature-controlled cabinets.
The reviews speak for themselves.
Château Bellevue-Mondotte 2020
Château Bellevue-Mondotte was purchased in 2001 by Gerard Perse, owner of several other estates including the famed Château Pavie. The tiny 2.5ha estate is located in St Emilion right next to Pavie and Pavie-Decesse and is classified Grand Cru under the St Emilion system.
The wine is 100% merlot and is 14.9% alcohol.
“This is a terrific wine that has everything, from seamless texture to great depth of fruit. Full-bodied, yet agile and energetic. Pure merlot. One of the best I have had from here.” 98-99 points, James Suckling.
“Displaying an opaque purple-black color, it sashays out of the glass with flamboyant notes of plum preserves, blackberry compote and blueberry pie, plus hints of hoisin, Chinese five spice and camphor with a touch of dried rose petals. The concentrated, seductive, full-bodied palate delivers layer upon layer of black and blue fruit preserves, accented by exotic spices and supported with firm, ripe, rounded tannins plus fantastic freshness. The finish is epically long and achingly fragrant. Wow!” 96-98 points, The Wine Advocate.
“The 2020 Bellevue Mondotte is another powerhouse from the team at Pavie. All Merlot from the upper plateau above Chateau Pavie (the soils here contain a touch more clay), this full-bodied, deep, concentrated 2020 has a tight, unevolved bouquet of darker raspberries, cassis, truffly earth, and chocolate. Balanced, structured, and incredibly pure, it’s mostly potential at this point and needs to be forgotten for 5-6 years. Best After 2028.”
98 points, Jeb Dunnuck.
Great reviews for a Bordeaux of this price.
I can offer it for $399 a bottle.
.gif)
Château Canon 2020
Château Canon has been owned by the Wertheimer family since 1996. The Wertheimers are the owners of the Chanel Group, which also owns Château Rauzan-Segla in Margaux. Whilst the family seemed to secure Canon for what seemed like a good price at the time, there was much work to do, which they fortunately undertook. These days the estate is amongst the top of St-Emilion, reflected in its being classified Premier Grand Cru Classé B.
The 2020 Château Canon is a blend of 68% merlot and 32% cabernet franc and is 14.5% alcohol.
“The brilliant 2020 Canon looks set to surpass both the 2019 and 2016 as this estate’s finest wine since the post-war period, though like many of the best 2020s, it will require more patience than its 2019 counterpart. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with notions of exotic spices and iris, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with vibrant acids and beautifully polished, chalky tannins. Pure and precise, it concludes with a long, mouthwatering finish. This beautifully constructed wine communicates the essence of this superb limestone terroir, and it will be worth a special effort to track down and cellar. Drink 2030 - 2065.”
100 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, April 2023.
“The 2020 Canon is a wine of mind-blowing purity and nuance. It has been nothing less than thrilling on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. Intensely saline and chalky, the 2020 possesses spellbinding finesse and nuance. Red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, white pepper, rose petal and mint all come alive in the glass, buttressed by clean saline notes that extend the mid-palate into the finish. There is simply nothing like great Canon. And the 2020 is unquestionably a great Canon. 2030-2070.” 100 points, Anonio Galloni, Feb 2023.
The Wertheimer family have carried out extensive renovations on the estate since their purchase in 1996.
“Stunning, grab-a-friend, insanely good wine. The structure and tannic grip manage to be both barely there and tightly controlling, giving form and space for the raspberry, blueberry and pomegrante fruits to crowd in the palate, followed by oyster shell salinity, pummice stone scrape and electic points of mandarin peel and lemon grass. Finished with pure no messing about juiciness. 50% new barrels, 3.53ph. Harvest 4 September to 23 September. 50% new oak, 40hl/ha yield. Thomas Duclos consultant, Nicolas Audebert director.” 100 points, Jane Anson MW, Feb 2023.
Outstanding reviews.
I can offer it for $499 a bottle.
Château Figeac 2020
One of my favourite producers, Château Figeac is one of the largest wine estates in St-Emilion. Located on soils comprising mostly of gravel, unlike other right bank producers, the wines of Château Figeac are often cabernet sauvignon dominant.
The history of this estate dates to the 2nd century, with the remains of a Roman villa still present on the property. Before the French revolution, Figeac was owned by the well-known Vital Carles family and at one point the estate spanned over 200ha. During the 19th century it was broken up – the reason so many surrounding estates bear the name Figeac. The Figeac vineyard is a single parcel with three gravelly outcrops that run from north to south. Grapes are usually harvested late due to the majority being cabernet, before being sorted fastidiously and fermented using natural yeasts in wooden vats. The wines are then aged in entirely new oak for 15 to 18 months.
The estate was rated as Premier Grand Cru Classé B in the original St Emilion Classification of 1955 and in 2022 was deservedly elevated to St-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A.
The 2020 is a blend of 37% merlot, 32% cabernet franc and 31% cabernet sauvignon. It’s 13.9% alcohol.
“The 2020 Figeac is the finest wine that has been bottled to date at this estate since its renaissance began a decade ago. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, licorice and black truffles, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a suave, harmonious profile, vibrant acids, and beautifully refined structuring tannins. This sapid, complex wine represents the essence of this great terroir. Two years after extensive soil studies of the estate were carried out, and the first growing season to see cover crops used in the vineyards year-round, the 2020 benefited from more coherently demarcated parcels and more precise élevage, which taken together help to account for its edge over the excellent 2019. 2030 - 2065.” 100 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate, April 2023.
Château Figeac is one of the largest estates in St-Emilion.
“A mesmerizing nose here with flowers such as violets and red roses, then shows cherries and currants with some mineral and black truffles. Full-bodied yet so refined and harmonized with ultra-fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Flavors of perfectly ripened fruit (al dente) with a hazelnut character that comes from the seeds. Incredibly transparent young red. Breathtaking. Drink after 2028 and onwards. Magnificent.” 100 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, May 2023.
*No. 4 in James Suckling's Top 100 Wines of 2023*
“The 2020 Figeac has a deep garnet-purple color. It is completely shut-down and silent to begin, requiring a vigorous shake to release nuances of boysenberries, Morello cherries, fresh, crunchy plums, and sassafras, followed by an emerging waft of plum preserves, licorice, chargrill, and violets. The medium-bodied palate is so, so tightly knit, delivering a millefeuille of black and red berries, minerals, earth, and floral notes, with electric tension and very fine-grained, exquisitely ripe tannins, finishing long, long, long. Atomic!” 99 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent, March 2023.
I can offer it for $750 a bottle.
Château Cheval Blanc 2020
The estate came into being in 1832, when Château Figeac sold off a parcel of land, which by the mid 1850s was being referred to as Cheval Blanc. The Laussac-Fourcaud family owned the estate from the late 1800’s to 1998 and were responsible for much of the estate’s progress. France’s richest man, Bernard Arnault (LVMH) and Belgian billionaire Baron Albert Frere, purchased the estate in 1998.
Cheval Blanc was one of the two original Grand Cru Classé A estates in the initial St-Emilion Classification of 1955, however as noted above, the estate withdrew from the Classification in 2021 citing issues with judging criteria. Despite this, the estate retains its position as one of the most prestigious in Bordeaux.
You may recall the movie Sideways in which the protagonist Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, screams his famous line “I’m not drinking any fucking merlot” and rattles his jar of Xanax at his friend Jack? The movie harps on Miles’ love of pinot noir. Yet when he at last decides to drink his most prized wine - one he’s saved for years to be drunk on the right occasion in the right company, he finds himself drinking it from a styrofoam cup, on his own, in a sad and lonely scene in a shabby local diner. The wine is a 1961 Cheval Blanc, the irony not lost on wine nerds who know this famous wine to be merlot dominant.
Interestingly the ‘61 Cheval Blanc was rated 93 points by Robert Parker in 1998 and 91 points by him again in 2003. The 2020 on the other hand received outstanding reviews all round.
The 2020 is a blend of 65% merlot, 30% cabernet franc, and 5% cabernet sauvignon and is 14.5% alcohol.
“Intense, indelible, with layer upon layer of blueberry, raspberry, pomegranate, fennel, liqourice, crayon, espresso, crushed rocks, just so much character and poise. The driest year at Cheval Blanc since 1959, with 71% of production from the 39ha estate in this wine, technical director Pierre Olivier Clouet. The first year that will not be bottled with Premier Grand Cru Classé A on the label since the ranking began, following its withdrawal from the ranking. That makes an interesting footnote for collectors I would imagine, but makes zero difference to the brilliance of what is in the bottle.”100 points, Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com, February 2023.
Miles swears off Merlot.
“As usual with Cheval Blanc, it’s primarily about finesse and elegance, as well as complexity, and exhibits a deep purple hue as well as a kaleidoscopic bouquet of sweet red and black fruits, spring flowers, spicy incense, loamy earth, and smoke tobacco. Absolutely flawless on the palate, it's full-bodied, has perfectly integrated oak, ripe, silky tannins, and a gorgeous finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. This powerful, concentrated Cheval Blanc offers pleasure even today (needs lots of air) but warrants 7-8 years of bottle age and will see its 40th birthday in fine form.” 100 points, Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com, March 2023.
Definitely not to be drunk alone or out of a styrofoam cup.
I can offer it for $1,950 a bottle.
Château Ausone 2020
Château Ausone has a long and complicated history. More recently the feuding owners, the Dubois-Challon and Vauthier families, were regularly at loggerheads, a situation that finally resolved itself when Alain Vauthier took over the estate in 1995.
Ausone was the other one of the two original Grand Cru Classé A estates in the initial St-Emilion Classification of 1955, however this estate also withdrew from the Classification in 2021 citing issues with judging criteria. Despite this, the estate retains its position as one of the most prestigious in Bordeaux.
The 2020 Cháteau Ausone is a blend of 50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc, and is 14% alcohol.
“After a shake or two, the nose erupts with the most gorgeous perfume of juicy blueberries, baked black plums, and black raspberries, followed by nuances of pencil shavings, iron ore, rose oil, and black truffles with a waft of cedar. The medium to full-bodied palate is taut with shimmery, energetic black and blue berry layers, framed by super-ripe, super fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epic length and a whole firework display of floral, mineral, and bright, pure fruit notes. This is incredible!” 100 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent, March 2023.
“The flowers in the nose are spectacular with violets, lavender, and honeysuckle. Then there’s wet stone and freshly cut limestone. Plus there’s raspberries and blueberries. The palate is full-bodied yet very tight and reserved, with fine tannins that run the length of the wine as well as hints of cedar, sandalwood and vanilla bean. It’s long and very racy and complex. Needs eight to 10 years of bottle age to open and come together. Try after 2032.” 99 points, James Suckling, May 2023.
“This is powerful and blows away much of the competition with its depth and layers. This needs you to pull up a chair, take a beat, and let the flavours unroll. There is so much density to the blueberry, bilberry and smoked raspberry fruits that they start out knitted down, then as the oxygen opens them up the body of the wine widens and becomes fleshier and creamier, adding chocolate and mocha notes. The limestone scrape is there in spades through the finish, and this is a cleverly constructed wine. As ever Ausone is just a masterclass in how to take apart and then put back together a terroir. Great stuff. First year of official conversion to organic farming. 100% new oak, some in 30hl oak casks. Could go up after tasting in bottle, a potential 100 points.” 98-100 points, Jane Anson MW, Decanter, May 2021.
I can offer it for $1,999 a bottle (1 bottle only).
