Spain is a large, warm country, well suited to growing grapes, with figures published earlier this year again confirming the largest plantings of vineyards in the world. Interestingly, in terms of volume of wine produced, it sits in third place behind Italy and France, its low yielding vineyards the result of several historical practices, including a lack of irrigation.
The vast majority of Bodegas Exopto's vines are over 60 years old and grow in a mix of limestone and clay soils.
Of its many wine regions, the one most synonymous with Spanish wine would have to be Rioja, or La Rioja as you may also see it referred to. Regarded as the leading wine region in Spain, Rioja is named after the River (Rio) Oja and lies in the northeast of the country, about 150km inland (south) of San Sebastian, centred on the provincial capital of Logroño. The region is the third largest in Spain, after La Mancha and Cataluna, and follows the river Ebro, which runs through the region from northwest to southeast. The Sierra de Cantabria Mountain range sits to the north of the region, providing various degrees of elevation as well as protection from prevailing wind and weather.
The region has a long viticultural history dating back to Roman times, however it really came to prominence in the late 1860s when phylloxera (an aphid-like insect) hit France, wiping out its vineyards. French wine merchants soon arrived in Spain seeking alternative sources of wine, creating a boom that lasted for nearly 40 years. In 1901 phylloxera reached Rioja, by which time Bordeaux was back to full production on resistant rootstock. Hello phylloxera, goodbye Frenchies… Rioja went into decline. The ensuing civil and world wars limited expansion in Rioja and it really only regained prominence again in the 1960s and 70s. By 1991 the region was the first to be elevated to DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada), the highest category in the Spanish appellation system. The only other region with this classification is Priorat (2003).
Rioja is divided into 3 zones:
You can see from the map that Rioja Alavesa (13,400ha) is the smallest. Sitting to the north of the river Ebro, right up against the mountains, it’s also the highest (400-500m) and its climate is influenced by the Atlantic. In terms of style, it produces the lightest wines, with the most finesse. Rioja Alta is where you’ll find the majority of traditional Rioja producers. It sits to the south of the Ebro, is warmer and drier than Alavesa, but still feels the cooling influence of the Atlantic. While second in terms of total area, it’s the largest in terms of vineyards planted (27,300ha). Rioja Oriental sits to south of the Ebro and to the east of the other two subregions. It’s the biggest in total area, but second in terms of vineyards planted (24,600ha). It’s lower in altitude, much warmer, and influenced by the Mediterranean rather than the Atlantic. More of the affordable and commercial wines are produced here.
While there are currently fourteen grape varieties allowed in Rioja (5 red & 9 white), the most widely planted variety and most synonymous with the region is tempranillo. According to the official Rioja website, it accounts for more than 75% of the region’s plantings.
Tempranillo grapes grown in Bodegas Exopto vineyards.
Jancis Robinson MW says: “The flavour of Tempranillo is essentially savoury rather than sweet. The characteristic smell has hints of leather but the phrase I use most often to describe it is fresh tobacco leaves… There is something sappy, fresh and vegetal about it… the sort of smells you would expect to find in a stereotypical gentleman's dressing room - which is, I suppose, where the leather comes in.” Other descriptors include cherry, plum, tomato, vanilla and clove.
The other red grapes you need to know are; garnacha (grenache), mazuelo and graciano. The main white variety is viura.
Fine red Rioja will typically be tempranillo (around 75%), mazuelo (10-15%) and garnacha and graciano making up the balance. Entry level red rioja is made predominantly of garnacha, with some tempranillo, a small amount of mazualo and no graciano.
In winemaking and classification terms, red Rioja is all about ageing in oak, with laws specifying 225 litre barriques which were introduced by the French during their time of influence in the mid 19th century. The region claims to have the most number of barrels (1.3 million) of any wine region in the world and has adopted American oak as the norm. While total minimum ageing requirements are the same in Rioja as national ones, the time in oak is longer.
The style of Rioja is typically big, meaty, aged and oaky, with loads of sweet fruit. Many of the Reservas and Gran Reservas are great, but I have to say, some are a little tired and too oxidised for my liking.
A newer style, that’s far more approachable has emerged in recent years. I’ve found a couple of entry level wines from two top-notch producers that showcase this much fresher style. I hope you enjoy these as much as I do.
Bodegas Exopto Rioja Bozeto de Exopto 2020
Latin for ‘to wish strongly’, Bodegas Exopto was established in 2003 by Tom Puyaubert, a Frenchman at the pointy end of the new wave of Spanish winemaking. He’s fanatical about reclaiming unique old vineyards and now has about 22ha (54 acres), spread across more than 30 different plots, the vast majority of which have vines over 60 years old. Incredible. Tom’s focus is on “respect for the environment”, which sees him using horse-drawn ploughs and biodynamic practices. This guy’s the real deal; passionate and skilled, crafting handmade wines in tiny quantities.
“Exopto is one of the consolidated new names in Rioja. Frenchman Tom Puyaubert is nowadays producing better wines than ever. Always humble and down to earth, he is focusing more and more on the vineyards… In the winery he is settling with 600-liter demi-muids, and the oak feels better integrated in the wines, respecting the character of the different vineyards.” Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate (Big deal to be on the radar of this guy).
Bozeto means ‘sketch’ or ‘outline’ and is an apt description for Puyaubert’s entry-level wine, designed to be a delicious, easy-drinking introduction to his range. Garnacha makes up about 40% of the blend and is sourced from a 60-year-old plot in Rioja Oriental, while the tempranillo is from a selection of mature vines in high county in Rioja Alta. Unusually for a wine of this price, there’s also some graciano from Rioja Oriental that adds freshness and finesse.
The wine was fermented in a combination of concrete and steel tanks, before being aged for six months in a combination of concrete and 5,000-litre old oak vats. And there was a small amount of semi-carbonic maceration to add an extra dimension in vibrance and freshness.
“Deep red with a bright rim. Spicy cherry and black raspberry on the nose, with brisk mineral and floral overtones. Juicy and focused, offering sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors and snappy acidity. Impresses with precision rather than power and finishes with juicy berry flavors and good persistence.” Winemaker’s notes.
The Bodegas Exopto objective is to produce honest and authentic wines and a return to artisanal vineyard work.
Amazing to have such big names review wines at this price, let alone give them good scores. Gives you an idea of the esteem in which Exopto is held.
“Tom Puyaubert does pan-regional red blends as well as anyone… with the focus on sappy, juicy black plum, raspberry and red cherry flavours rather than oak. Tasty, balanced and youthful.”
91 points, Tim Atkin, Rioja Special Report 2022.
“A pretty nose of cassis, plums, raspberries, bark and sweet spices. Medium-bodied with sleek tannins. Round, plush and juicy with plenty of fruit and a spicy finish.”
90 points, James Suckling.
I found this a terrific entry level Rioja that’s fresh and all too easy to drink.
I can offer it for $29 a bottle.
Valenciso Rioja Laderas de Cabama 2018
In 1998 industry veterans Luis Valentin (Valen…) and Carmen Enciso (…ciso) left Bodegas Palacio, one of Rioja’s most historic producers, to establish what has become another leading light among terroir-focussed Rioja producers.
The pair set up a winery and acquired several vineyards in the north of Rioja Alta at elevations of up to 600m which they farm organically. Their winemaking style is based on the use of concrete rather than stainless steel, which they see as promoting a gentler extraction. These days Valenciso are regarded as one of the premier small-scale producers, with their top wines lauded as some of the best in Rioja. “This wine [Valenciso Rioja Riserva] is, year in, year out, among the best in its category.” Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate.
Laderas de Cabama is the estate’s entry level wine crafted from a single plot called Cabama (Laderas mean slopes). It’s 100% tempranillo, sourced from 35-year-old vines in Rioja Alta at 550 metres elevation. Previously, this single-vineyard bottling was made in a similar style to Valenciso’s flagship Reserva, in that it was built to age in barrel and bottle before release. From the 2018 vintage, Valenciso sought to craft the wine in a younger, more fruit-forward style. The fruit was picked a little earlier and winemaking used a portion of whole-berry, carbonic fermentation, to bring a more primary and juicy note. No new oak was used, instead fermentation was in cool concrete, followed by 14 months in used French oak barrels.
As soon as I got a whiff this wine I knew I was going to love it. The vibrance, purity and sweetness of the fruit, both on the nose and palate, is intoxicating.
Valenciso have chosen quality over quantity, reducing production to a yield of 5,000 kilos per hectare - instead of the permitted 6,500 - to encourage concentration and the richness of the grapes.
“The first thing you’ll notice with this vibrant and super-energetic wine is just how youthful it looks and smells. Deep crimson-purple, it has aromas of dark cherries, cola, spice and gentle cedar notes all soaring from the glass. Given the modest price point, there is real drive and intensity on the palate. Those dark fruits are also there in the mouth, along with suave, persistent tannins (which will also ensure this ages superbly) and very refreshing acidity (giving this wine its shape and balance). Great on its own, this will also suit with a wide variety of meat dishes.” Bibendum Wine Co.
I can offer it for $38 a bottle.
