The term Grand Cru is used in France in a few different ways, but it’s most associated with the highest level vineyard classification in Burgundy. The official site of the region, Vins de Bourgogne, identifies 33 Grand Crus, but you may see more than this referred to by other sources, as more than one village is entitled to use the name Grand Cru. For example, the Corton Grand Cru may be used by 3 villages Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses and Ladoix-Serrigny.
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Official categorisation of this sort does not exist in Australia, but there are still a few Grand Cru-esque vineyards - sites that stand out not only through their quality, but also the distinctive terroir influence marking their wines. I had a chat with wine critic Angus Hughson about such sites in terms of chardonnay: there’s Vasse Felix Heytesbury (Margaret River), Giaconda’s Beechworth vineyard (Victoria) and Tolpuddle vineyard (Tasmania). But we both thought that another vineyard that should be added to this list, Tiers Vineyard in the Adelaide Hills, which since 2005 has been bottled under the Tapanappa label.
The Tiers Vineyard site was purchased by Brian Croser well before the region became a mecca for Australian chardonnay. This meant he had the pick of the sites, and he chose well. The Tiers vineyard is located in a little pocket of the Piccadilly Valley in what is one of the coolest and wettest parts of the Adelaide Hills. These attributes, as well as proximity to Cox Creek, provide much needed humidity and protection from the odd mid-summer heat spike - meaning that even in the middle of summer, the vines in this unique site are still lush and green. It also means that in the warmest years, the wines retain their acidity and sleek shape. These days the site is surrounded (and sheltered) by tall trees on most sides, with Brian Croser’s house still sitting at the top of the hill overlooking the vineyard. The old winery, originally used by Petaluma, which Brian started in 1976, is still there in the corner of the vineyard, and is now used by Tapanappa. The bucolic scene a little postage stamp of Adelaide Hills paradise.
Brian Croser during the planting the first vines in the Tiers Vineyard in 1979.
With most vines in the Adelaide Hills having been grubbed (removed) in the early 1900s, the 1979 plantings of the Tiers vineyard where the first of the ‘modern era.’ Initial plantings at Tiers were of the Gingin clone, made famous by Margaret River. But what really set tongues wagging at the time was that ‘mad’ Croser was planting his vines so close together - the closest of any vineyard on the Australian mainland, which aligned it with Burgundy. A second clone was also planted but it turned out to be not what was ordered, so in 2003, it was ripped out and replaced with French Bernard Clones 76 and 95, which were not available back in the 70s. Croser also took his close planting to a new level with vines in the new vineyard even closer than in the first, only 1.5 metres apart, the source for the Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard 1.5M Chardonnay.
The history of the Adelaide Hills and Tapanappa is intertwined with Brian Croser, who still oversees the wines. Few people have had such an immense impact on the Australian wine industry, with perhaps only Len Evans and James Halliday in the same echelon. Croser championed cool climate viticulture and winemaking well before it was fashionable - his early steps at Petaluma helping to uncover a new and exciting side to South Australian wine. Remember this was well before Margaret River, Tasmania, Murrumbateman and the Macedon Ranges were on the scene. Petaluma under Croser, was truly an exciting time - becoming a training ground for Australia’s most talented up-and-coming winemakers.
The Tiers Vineyard is surrounded by tall trees on all sides to create the equivalent of a French clos.
As for the best way to describe the overall style of Tapanappa Chardonnays? I’d say classic. Not just in an Australian sense, but in a global context, aligned with the great wines of California’s Russian River, New Zealand, Burgundy of course and our own Margaret River, Southern Victoria, Tasmania and the Adelaide Hills. Tapanappa chardonnays are shapely wines, with genuine richness and flavour, but they are also energetic and bright, thanks to a fresh acid backbone. The ability to combine power and complexity, with freshness and vitality is what I love about these wines, and arguably what makes Tapanappa the leading Australian exponent of this style since its earliest vintages.
Any discussion of great chardonnay should also mention oak - generally, but not always, a vital component. You’ll see barrel fermentation, sometimes using natural yeasts, with solids (dead yeast cells and any other matter that sinks to the bottom of the barrel) adding complexity. Tapanappa chardonnay doesn’t push winemaking boundaries in terms of solids and reduction (limiting exposure to oxygen to preserve aromas), but holds its own with the best from around the world, and 2022 is a standout vintage.
The Tiers Vineyard is planted on an intensive vine regime and managed fastidiously by hand on a vine-by-vine basis to ensure fruit quality.
This wine is made essentially the same way every vintage. Handpicked fruit is chilled to 2 degrees in trays in a cool room, before being pressed gently by air bag press. Ferment is carried out in oak, one third new, lasting for about two months in cool autumn conditions. The wine then spends about 6 months ageing in barrel on full lees until December, when it’s clear racked (transferred without any sediment) from barrique, and bottled in January of the following year. The 2022 vintage is 13.7% alcohol and sealed with a screw cap.
When you consider the Grand Cru wines from Burgundy’s top white (chardonnay) appellations of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet sell for thousands of dollars a bottle, Tapanappa chardonnay is an absolute bargain.
The Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay really is one of my favourite Aussie chardonnays and I’m pleased to be able to offer you the just released 2022 vintage as well as the lauded 2021 vintage, which I’ve been saving. A six pack of each should do the trick… go on.
Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay 2022
Brian Croser’s notes for each vintage are always illuminating - here’s what he had to say about 2022: “We are currently in the middle of a very moderate temperature, dry sequence of vintages. Following the cataclysmic fire events of 2019 and early 2020, in February of 2020, the vintage climate changed to cool and dry and has remained that way since. Of the sequence of great vintages from 2020, 2022 was the coolest, perhaps to be surpassed by the evolving 2023 vintage. Cool is great for chardonnay.”
There is some serious power, intensity and Grand Cru grip to this wine. The complexity is exceptional - citrus, melon, nougat, praline and crushed cashews beautifully intertwined with exceptional oak handling. A superb Australian chardonnay that would sit proudly against the best from around the world.
“It’s still a babe, with a palish yellow hue, and presents initially as a restrained style with a fresh, fruit-driven bouquet of lemon, nut and nougat, while the palate is intense and piercing, deep, concentrated and powerful, with biscuity overtones. It’s bright and refreshing, the lemony acidity powering a long finish. A superb chardonnay with a bright future. An ullaged bottle showed no sign of deterioration after four days, which I take as an additional positive sign. (Screwcap)” 97 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review. Ranked 1 of 16, 2022 chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills.
“Pale colour. Very attractive grapefruit, lemon curd, tonic water aromas with marzipan, vanilla notes. Classical, beautifully balanced and multi-layered wine with grapefruit, lemon curd, tonic water flavours, grilled nut, marzipan notes, chalky hint, grippy textures and pure crisp acidity. Very good volume, richness, fruit complexity and mineral length. Drink now - 2030.” 96 Points, Andrew Caillard MW.
“This is an immaculate Chardonnay and one of best Tiers vintages yet with every element in its perfect place. It opens with beautifully precise and detailed aromas of grapefruit, honeydew melon and chalky minerality topped by fine new oak all tightly wrapped. The palate then delivers fantastic extract and volume of pristine fruit underpinned by a bolt of fresh acidity that drives a long, sustained cashew scented finish. Super impressive and will deliver for many years, but give it time to flower. Drink now - 2030.” 96 Points, Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot.
I can offer it for $100 a bottle.
Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay 2021
“This 2021 Chardonnay Tiers Vineyard is a sensational wine. The 2021 vintage was a goodie in South Australia. The start to the season (spring and around) was the recipient of a good level of rainfall and no ill-timed events, meaning fruit set and yields were decent, and the growing season itself was without heat events or challenges, meaning the picking windows were chosen based on the fruit, with no forced hands. So, to the wine. This is powerful, concentrated and shapely, with a core of pure citrus acidity (it’s zesty and pithy). The fruit speaks of yellow peach and preserved lemon and a hint of white tea. The wine undulates across the tongue and shows line and poise that elevate it to the very top of the Chardonnay tree in Australia. One of the greats. I daresay it’ll be even better in 2025.” 97+ points, Erin Larkin, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.
“Already a benchmark producer of Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, Tapanappa’s consistent Gold-medal-winning performance in this competition proves that it’s not only top of the pile in Australia, but amongst its rivals worldwide too. Particularly fine is this expression, the Tapanappa Chardonnay from its clos-like, cool-climate Tiers vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley. Featuring notes of fine, fresh fruit, from white-fleshed peach to pink grapefruit, complemented by flavours of cinnamon, cashew and toast, along with a touch of salt and lemon, it’s a layered and complex white, with a fairly light-mouthfeel, but plenty of intense and persistent characters to keep one interested and refreshed.” Awarded Top 20 Chardonnays of 2022 (this is an International competition). Patrick Schmitt MW, The Drinks Business, Dec 2022.
“This is stunning. Intense with flavour, chalky of texture, long of finish. Flint, grapefruit, pear and peach flavours charge with authority through the palate. Crushed fennel notes dance about the edges. The drive and the power and the overall impact of this is really quite something; it’s an emphatic wine, it took but one sip for me to be thoroughly convinced.” 96 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front.
I can offer it for $105 a bottle.
Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay 2023 also now available
