David 20 March 2014
On occasions when something not too obscure or esoteric is required for the table, one of the most recognisable names in wine must surely be Chianti.
But while Chianti is such a recognisable term, what exactly is it? For many it’s a bottle clad in a straw basket (a fiasco) of uncertain quality, at the local pizzeria. The past few decades have seen a turnaround in Chianti though, with significant improvements in quality, as well as the phasing out of the straw packaging, so things are looking better all round.
Chianti is located between Florence and Sienna in the stunning Tuscan countryside and like many European wines is the name of both the region and wine. Tuscany is famously home to some of the world’s best wines in the form of Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Super Tuscans.
Chianti has been referred to as far back as the 13th century, but it was not until 1716 that the region was officially recognised with the identification of three specific villages (Castellina, Radda and Gaiole). This original area remained more or less unchanged until 1932 when it was expanded and then expanded again in 1967 to cover a large area of central Tuscany. Nowdays there are 8 subzones within the Chianti DOCG (the highest classification in the Italian hierarchy). Of course being Italy, it’s not quite that simple - there are several other delineations thrown into the geographical mix to further complicate matters.
In the mid-to-late 1800s, Baron Bettino Ricasoli (the 2nd prime minister of Italy) created the original varietal formula for Chianti. He pegged it at 70% sangiovese (red), 15% canaiolo (red) and 15% malvasi bianca (white). There have been subsequent changes, but since 1996 it’s been legal to use 80-100% sangiovese, up to 20% canaiolo and up to 20% of other approved red varieties (cab sauv, merlot, syrah). Despite all this complexity, it’s safe to think of Chianti as essentially sangiovese.
Sangiovese is Italy’s most planted variety and tends to be slow and late ripening in the vineyard. Its general characteristics are high/bright acidity and moderate to high tannin. It also tends to be lighter in colour and weight, which is why it’s often blended with other varieties. Typical descriptors for Chianti include: cherry, raspberry, violets and herbs.
One of the 8 subzones of Chianti is Chianti Montespertoli (DOCG) which is located in the picturesque hills about 20km southwest of Florence. It’s the newest subzone, receiving its own identity in 2002, prior to which it was a part of the much larger Chianti Colli Fiorentini. At 57ha, Chianti Montespertoli is the smallest subzone and is recognised as ideal terroir to produce sangiovese. This sleepy little place is home to a number of undiscovered producers.
One such producer is Tenuta di Morzano, established by brothers Luciano and Nino Mignolli in 1973. Inspired by their grandfather, they acquired a small farm, naming it ‘Podere del Nonno Nanni’ (farm of grandfather Nanni - short for Giovanni). In 1988 they amalgamated several holdings around the farm and renamed the combined 140 ha estate ‘Tenuta di Morzano' (estate of Morzano) after the hill on which it stood. Now the 43ha under vine produces both red and white wines, with the rest of the estate given over to other agricultural products such as olives and spelt. The current owners are Luciano and his daughter Francesca.
Tenuta di Morzano Chianti Montespertoli
This wine has been made by the estate since 1997 and is 100% sangiovese. It sees no oak and is designed to be an entry level chianti - which is what I like about it. It’s a simple, authentic wine that's good value.
While it’s described by the estate as a newer style, which means more emphasis on fruit, that’s by Italian standards, so you’ll still find it more savoury than Australian reds. I think one of the main misconceptions people have about chianti is that it’s a big, blockbuster style. It’s not. Instead it’s a mid-weight wine, built on acid and tannin and these are the qualities that make chianti such a great accompaniment to food.
I managed to grab some of the 2009 before it sold out and I'm also offering the recently released 2011. Both wines are lean and savoury, with good acidity, rather than being fruit driven. These are basic table wines, nothing too complex and great for everyday drinking - exactly what you’d expect at this price.
1. Tenuta di Morzano Chianti Montespertoli 2009
Brick red in colour, this is a dry, lean, savoury, savoury wine, with chinotto and dried herb flavours. As you'd expect there's not a great deal of primary fruit hogging the limelight, but that's not what you're here for. Enjoy mellow, aged characters juxtaposed with refreshing astringencyin this lovely, lean wine. The combination makes it a perfect partner for food - whether you're having a few slices of marbled sopressa or a hearty ragu. How nice to get a wine at this price with a few years' age on it.
I can offer it for $19 a bottle. SOLD OUT - Check availability
2. Tenuta di Morzano Chianti Montespertoli 2011
The purply red colour tells you straight away that this is younger wine, but as you'd expect, there's a strong similarity between the two. Once again there's chinotto and dried herbs on the palate, but it combines this with some more youthful red cherry fruit flavours. It's dry, with a lovely astringency and subdued tannins. Great everyday drinking.
I can offer it for $19 a bottle. SOLD OUT - Check availability
Not ones for the cellar, enjoy these wines now as great value mid-week quaffers. I can’t woo you with accolades as they're not around town, but you’ll find them something very different to Aussie reds at the same price - plus they have some age on them. Grab a few of each and enjoy the comparison.
(Note: Front labels are identical - vintages are listed on the back of each bottle).
